APPLICATIONS & PROJECTS
Practical how-to guides for applying ARVEAN systems - learn how to identify the problem, prepare the surface and apply each product correctly for a professional, long-lasting result.
HOW-TO & APPLICATION CENTRE
IDENTIFY. PREPARE. APPLY. ACHIEVE.
Every guide on this page follows the same proven structure so you can approach any ARVEAN product with confidence:
1. UNDERSTAND
What the product does and when to use it.
2. IDENTIFY
Recognise the problem and assess the surface.
3. PREPARE
Tools, surface prep and conditions required.
4. APPLY
Step-by-step application method.
5. FINISH & CURE
Curing, drying and final checks.
Important: these guides give professional general practice. Always confirm the exact coverage, mixing, primer, application and cure details with the ARVEAN technical data sheet for the specific product and substrate you are using. For critical or structural applications, confirm with our technical team before starting.
GUIDE 1 — POLYURETHANE FLOOR COATINGS
HOW TO IDENTIFY, PREPARE AND APPLY
What it is. A polyurethane floor coating is a tough, seamless, resin-based system applied over a suitable substrate (usually concrete) to create a durable, hard-wearing, easy-to-clean floor. It is used in garages, workshops, showrooms, warehouses, kitchens and living areas where a strong, seamless, low-maintenance surface is required. Unlike paint, it builds a protective membrane that resists wear, light chemicals, stains and moisture.
Before applying, confirm that a floor coating is the right solution and that the floor is suitable. Look for the reasons a coating is needed: bare, dusty or porous concrete that stains easily; worn, scratched or patched surfaces; floors that absorb water or oils; or an old, failing coating that is peeling or blistering. Assess the concrete: it must be sound, cured, dry and free of laitance, oil, grease, wax, curing membranes, dust and loose material. If the concrete is damp from below (no damp-proof membrane) or badly cracked or spalling, those issues must be resolved first, otherwise the new coating will fail. Check moisture by taping a plastic sheet over the floor overnight; trapped condensation indicates high moisture that must be dealt with. Confirm the coating type and coverage from the technical data sheet before you buy.
Surface preparation is 80% of a successful floor. Remove all oils, grease and coatings with a suitable degreaser or mechanical method. Grind or diamond-grind the surface (or shot-blast) to open up the concrete and remove laitance, so the coating can key in properly. Fill cracks, holes and spalls with a suitable repair mortar and allow it to cure. Vacuum thoroughly and remove all dust. The floor must be dry and the room temperature and substrate temperature within the range recommended on the data sheet (typically a comfortable working range, avoiding freezing or very hot surfaces). Ventilate the area. Use appropriate PPE including gloves, eye protection and respiratory protection, and keep children and pets away while working and curing.
Mix the coating thoroughly according to the data sheet. Most systems require a primer first: roll or brush the primer onto the clean, dry substrate to seal it and improve adhesion, and allow it to dry/cure as instructed before the topcoat. Apply the polyurethane floor coating evenly with a roller (using a medium-pile roller for the body coat and a roller/squeeggee method for larger areas if recommended). Work in manageable sections so you maintain a wet edge and avoid visible lap marks. Apply the number of coats specified, allowing the required recoat time between coats. If a non-slip or decorative finish is required, broadcast aggregate or flakes into the wet coat as directed, or use the appropriate additive. Keep the area free of dust and foot traffic during application.
Allow the coating to cure fully before allowing foot traffic, and longer before heavy traffic, furniture or vehicles. Follow the data sheet for dust-free, light-traffic and full-traffic times and for temperature-dependent curing. Once cured, the floor can be cleaned with a mild detergent and water. Protect the new floor from abrasive grit, and avoid standing water for long periods unless the system is specified for it. For the best, most durable result, always confirm exact coverage, coats, primers, recoat times and cure times with the ARVEAN technical data sheet for the specific product.
GUIDE 2 — POLYURETHANE POOL COATINGS
HOW TO IDENTIFY, PREPARE AND APPLY
What it is. A polyurethane pool coating is a seamless, watertight, protective coating applied to the interior surface of a pool (concrete or fibreglass) to seal it, give it a smooth, cleanable finish and extend its life. It is used both for new pools and for renovating older pools whose surface is stained, rough, leaking or no longer holds a clean finish. The result is a durable, non-porous surface that resists water, pool chemicals, algae growth and weathering.
Step 1 — Identify the problem & assess the pool
Decide whether the pool needs a full recoat or a repair. Look for signs of an ageing pool surface: persistent stains that will not scrub off, rough or powdery finish, hairline cracks, blistering or peeling of an old coating, water loss (leaks) that cannot be explained by evaporation, or a surface that is hard to keep clean. Emptying and inspecting the pool properly is essential, but be careful: some pool structures rely on water pressure for stability, so consult a professional if you are unsure about draining a concrete or tiled pool. Identify the surface type (concrete, plastered concrete or fibreglass) because preparation and primer differ. Check for structural cracks, movement or obvious damp before coating, since a coating is a surface finish, not a structural repair. Confirm the correct pool coating and primer for your surface from the technical data sheet.
Step 2 — Tools, conditions & surface preparation
Thorough preparation is critical for a pool that will sit under water. Completely drain and dry the pool and remove all debris. Remove old loose coating by grinding, scraping or, if needed, pressure washing, then allow the surface to dry fully. Repair cracks and defects with a suitable repair material recommended for the substrate and let it cure. For concrete/plaster pools, remove laitance and open the surface so the coating can key; for fibreglass, lightly abrade a glossy surface to improve adhesion. Remove all dust with a vacuum and a clean cloth, and keep the surface dry and free of oil, wax and chemicals. Work in a dry period with mild temperatures as recommended on the data sheet (avoid very hot surfaces or rain risk if the pool area is outdoors). Ventilate, wear appropriate PPE including gloves, eye protection and respiratory protection, and keep children, pets and dust away during application and curing.
Step 3 — Apply the coating
Mix the coating thoroughly as instructed. Apply the recommended primer first to seal and promote adhesion, and allow it to cure before topcoating. Working in sections, apply the polyurethane pool coating evenly with a roller or brush, maintaining a wet edge to avoid lap marks, and cover the full pool surface including walls, floor, steps and any fittings. Apply the number of coats specified on the data sheet, respecting the recoat window between coats (applying too early can trap solvents; too late can need a light sand between coats). Ensure an even film thickness, as thin patches can fail under water. Follow the exact coverage and coat guidance for the product.
Step 4 — Curing, refilling & care
Allow the coating to cure fully before refilling the pool, following the data sheet for the minimum cure time (pool coatings often need longer than floor coatings before contact with water). Refill slowly to avoid trapping air or marking the fresh finish. Balance the pool water correctly after refilling. Keep the new surface clean and avoid harsh abrasives. For a long-lasting result, always confirm the exact coverage, coats, primers, recoat times and water-immersion cure time with the ARVEAN technical data sheet for the specific product.
GUIDE 3 — ROOFING RUBBERS / LIQUID RUBBER ROOF WATERPROOFING
HOW TO IDENTIFY, PREPARE AND APPLY
What it is. Liquid rubber (often sold as a roofing rubber) is a flexible, cold-applied waterproofing coating that cures to form a seamless, elastic membrane on the roof. It is brushed or rolled on as a liquid and bonds to the substrate, sealing cracks and joints and moving with the roof under thermal expansion. It is ideal for waterproofing flat and pitched roofs, parapets, roof edges, gutters and detail areas on concrete, metal and some existing roof surfaces. Because it is applied cold as a seamless membrane, it is a popular repair and renovation system as well as a solution for new roofs.
First find and understand the source of the leak. Water can travel along the roof and appear somewhere far from the entry point, so inspect the whole roof rather than only the ceiling stain below. Look for cracked, blistered, wrinkled or lifted existing coatings; splits and punctures in membranes; failed sealant at joints, penetrations, gutters and parapets; ponding water (areas where water sits); and rust on metal roofs. Identify the roof substrate (concrete, screed, corrugated metal, etc.) and confirm that liquid rubber is suitable and that the correct primer is used for that substrate. Address structural or drainage issues (e.g., poor falls causing ponding) before waterproofing, because standing water shortens any roof system's life. Confirm coverage, primers and application details from the technical data sheet.
The roof must be clean, dry, sound and free of loose material, oil, grease, moss, dust and old failing coatings. Remove loose or unbonded coating and debris, sweep and, where needed, pressure-wash or scrub, then allow the roof to dry completely. Fill and smooth cracks and joints with a suitable sealant or repair material as recommended, and repair any rust on metal roofs before coating. Apply the recommended primer for your substrate and allow it to dry, so the liquid rubber bonds correctly. Work in dry conditions and within the temperature range on the data sheet; do not apply in rain or when rain is expected before the coating cures, or on damp surfaces. Wear appropriate PPE including gloves and suitable footwear, and protect gutters and drains from run-off where required.
Start with detail work: brush liquid rubber into corners, joints, penetrations, parapets, roof edges and around outlets using a brush, building a reinforcement if the system requires a polyester or fleece reinforcement at these weak points. Then apply the membrane over the main roof area evenly with a roller, working in sections and maintaining a wet edge so the coating forms one continuous film without thin patches. Apply the number of coats and total dry-film thickness specified on the data sheet, allowing the required time between coats. Do not stretch coverage to save material, as thin areas are where roofs fail first. Where reinforcement is needed across a full roof, follow the system's instructions for embedding the reinforcing layer between coats.
Allow the liquid rubber to cure fully before exposing it to water or foot traffic, following the data sheet for cure times. After curing, inspect the roof for any missed areas, thin spots or uncoated details and touch them up. Keep the roof free of standing debris and inspect it periodically, especially after storms, and recoat or repair as recommended. For the best result, always confirm exact coverage, coats, primer, reinforcement and cure times with the ARVEAN technical data sheet for the specific product and substrate.
GUIDE 4 — ROOFING MEMBRANES
HOW TO IDENTIFY, PREPARE AND APPLY
What it is. A roofing membrane is a flexible, reinforced waterproofing layer that is bonded to the roof to provide a seamless, durable barrier against water. Depending on the system, membranes may be applied with adhesive, torched or self-adhered, and are often reinforced with polyester or fleece for strength. They are used to waterproof flat and low-slope roofs, joints, penetrations and detail areas, and to repair or renovate failing roofs where a tough, reinforced membrane is needed. Some systems are installed as part of a multi-coat liquid system where a reinforcing fleece is embedded between coats to create a reinforced membrane in situ.
Step 1 — Identify the problem & choose the system
Inspect the roof to find the cause of leaks: damaged or blistered existing felt or membranes, failed laps and joints, cracks at parapets and upstands, splits at roof edges, and penetrations around pipes, vents and outlets. Note the roof substrate (concrete, screed, insulation, existing membrane or metal) because this determines the adhesive or primer and the correct installation method. Decide whether you are installing a new membrane, repairing a localised area, or renovating a whole roof, and choose the membrane type recommended by ARVEAN for that application. Confirm coverage, primer, adhesive and installation method from the technical data sheet before you start, since a wrong adhesive or unprimed substrate can cause the membrane to fail.
Step 2 — Tools, conditions & surface preparation
The substrate must be clean, dry, sound and free of loose material, grease, dust, moss and loose existing membrane. Remove any unbonded or blistered old membrane, sweep and clean the area, and allow it to dry. Repair cracks, joints and upstands with a suitable sealant or repair material and let it cure. Apply the recommended primer over the prepared substrate and allow it to dry, so the adhesive bonds correctly. Work in dry conditions within the temperature range specified on the data sheet, and do not install when rain is expected before the membrane is fully bonded. Use appropriate PPE and take care on the roof, especially near edges and on steep or wet surfaces.
Step 3 — Install the membrane
Install the membrane according to the exact method for the system you are using. For adhesive-applied sheets, roll out and position the membrane, then apply the adhesive as directed and press or roll the membrane firmly into place, working out air bubbles. Overlap sheets at the laps specified and bond/ seal the laps properly so water cannot enter at the joints. Turn the membrane up parapets, upstands and edges to the required height and finish details around outlets, pipes and penetrations so they are watertight. For reinforced liquid-applied systems, apply the first coat, embed the reinforcing fleece into the wet coat, then apply further coats over it to fully saturate and cover the reinforcement. Do not leave edges or laps unsealed - the most common failures happen at details and joints.
Step 4 — Finish, test & care
After installation, allow any liquid or adhesive to cure fully as instructed. Inspect the whole roof, checking laps, edges, upstands and penetrations for any opening or missed area, and repair any defects. Where practical, test with water after cure to confirm watertightness before you consider the job complete. Keep the roof clear of debris and inspect it periodically, especially after storms. For a reliable, long-lasting roof, always confirm the exact membrane type, primer, adhesive, overlap and installation method with the ARVEAN technical data sheet for your substrate.
GUIDE 5 — BONDING LIQUIDS & PLASTER PRIMERS
HOW TO IDENTIFY, PREPARE AND APPLY
What they are. Bonding liquids (bonding agents) and plaster primers are preparatory products used to improve the adhesion of renders, plasters, screeds and mortars to a substrate. A bonding liquid is brushed or rolled onto a surface to create a tacky, grippy key so that new material bonds firmly; a plaster primer prepares and seals the background so that plaster or render adheres evenly and does not suck out moisture too quickly. They are used on smooth concrete, old painted or tiled surfaces, masonry, and other backgrounds that are difficult for fresh render, plaster or screed to grip. Using them correctly prevents delamination, hollow areas, cracking and early failure of the new layer.
Determine why adhesion is a concern: is the background smooth and non-porous (for example, dense concrete, a smooth screed, or an old painted or tiled wall where new plaster or render must stick)? Is the surface very porous and "sucking" moisture from the fresh coat, causing it to dry too fast and crack or dust? Both situations need a suitable bonding liquid or primer, but the correct product depends on the substrate and the material you are applying. Check whether you need a bonding agent to key a difficult surface or a primer to control suction and seal a porous background, and confirm the recommended product from the ARVEAN technical data sheet. A poorly chosen or poorly applied primer is a common cause of plaster and render failure.
The background must be clean, dry enough for the product, sound and free of dust, grease, oil, wax, loose paint, efflorescence and old flaking material. Brush and vacuum the surface and remove any loose material. Where the surface is very smooth or glossy, mechanical keying (for example, light scabbling) may be needed in addition to a bonding liquid for heavy renders. Do not apply primers over damp, frozen or contaminated surfaces. Work in the conditions recommended on the data sheet and use appropriate PPE such as gloves and eye protection. If the area is large or dusty, wear a dust mask.
Mix the product if required and apply it evenly with a brush or roller over the area to be treated. For a bonding liquid, follow the instructions on how it is used: it is often applied to the substrate and the fresh material (render, plaster or screed) is applied onto it while it is still tacky, or in some cases it is used to "butter" the surface. For a primer, apply it as an even coat and allow it to dry as instructed before plastering or rendering, so it forms a proper key and controls suction. Do not apply too thick or leave puddles, and do not let a bonding liquid dry out before the next layer if the system requires application onto the wet/tacky film. Confirm the recoat and open time from the data sheet.
Apply the plaster, render, mortar or screed within the open time of the bonding liquid or over the cured primer as recommended, pressing it firmly into the prepared surface. Keep the new layer moist enough to cure correctly where required (for example, damp curing cementitious renders and screeds), and avoid rapid drying that causes cracking. Check for hollow areas or detachment after curing and repair them. For the best adhesion and a finish that lasts, always confirm the exact product, application method, open time and suitability with the ARVEAN technical data sheet for your substrate and material.
GUIDE 6 — RISING DAMP TREATMENT
HOW TO IDENTIFY, PREPARE AND APPLY
What it is. Rising damp is the upward movement of ground moisture through the pores of masonry and concrete walls. It happens when there is no effective damp-proof course (DPC) or when the existing DPC has failed, allowing water to be drawn up the wall by capillary action. The moisture usually rises only to a certain height (typically up to about a metre), leaving a characteristic tide mark, staining, efflorescence (white salts) and damaged plaster or paint on the lower part of the wall. ARVEAN damp-protection products are designed to help interrupt this moisture path - commonly through a chemical damp-proof course injected into the wall - and to allow the wall to be replastered with a suitable renovating or protective plaster system.
Step 1 — Identify rising damp & confirm the cause
Confirm that the problem is genuinely rising damp and not something else, because treatment differs. True rising damp appears as a fairly even horizontal band low on the wall, with salts and staining, and does not extend high up or appear in patches high on the wall. Ruling out alternatives matters: penetrating damp (from outside), plumbing leaks, condensation and bridging (moisture crossing over the DPC via a raised floor, soil or render bridge) can all look similar. Look for a wall that is bridged - for example, earth or paving higher than the DPC, a render or plaster that spans the DPC, or a damp path bridging inside. Check whether a DPC exists. If you are not certain, seek professional diagnosis before treating, because injecting a chemical DPC is not the answer for penetrating damp or leaks. Identify the wall type (brick, stone or block) and its thickness, since this determines the number and spacing of injection holes.
Step 2 — Tools, conditions & surface preparation
Remove the contaminated plaster from the affected zone (generally up to 300mm above the highest point of the damp/salts), exposing the masonry so the treatment can penetrate. Strip the area back to clean brickwork or blockwork and remove loose mortar, dust and salts. Remove or correct any bridging of the damp-proof course (for example, lower external ground levels, remove debris, cut out bridging render). Ventilate the area and wear appropriate PPE including gloves and eye protection. Confirm from the technical data sheet the correct injection spacing, depth and pressure for your wall type and thickness, and the correct renovating plaster to use afterwards.
Step 3 — Apply the treatment
Drill injection holes through the wall at the correct spacing and depth, along the line of the proposed DPC, and clean out the holes. Inject the damp-proofing cream or fluid into the holes at the pressure and quantity recommended, working so that the chemical penetrates and forms a continuous barrier across the wall. For thicker walls you may need to inject from both faces or use longer drill lengths. Allow the injected treatment to disperse and cure as instructed before replastering. Do not replaster too quickly, and do not miss holes or spacing, as gaps in the barrier allow damp to continue rising.
Step 4 — Replaster, dry out & finish
Replaster the stripped area using a suitable salt-resistant renovating plaster as recommended, which allows the wall to dry while resisting the salts. Allow the wall to dry out fully over time; this can take many weeks or months depending on how saturated it was. Ensure any bridging is permanently corrected so the DPC is not bypassed. Decorate only after the wall is sufficiently dry and with a suitable breathable finish where recommended. For an effective, lasting result, always confirm the correct injection method, renovating plaster and drying guidance with the ARVEAN technical data sheet, and seek professional diagnosis if you are unsure whether the damp is truly rising damp.
GUIDE 7 — PENETRATING DAMP TREATMENT
HOW TO IDENTIFY, PREPARE AND APPLY
What it is. Penetrating damp is moisture that forces its way through the building fabric - usually through external walls, parapets, chimneys, copings, cracks or around openings - rather than rising from the ground. Unlike rising damp, which forms a low, even band, penetrating damp tends to appear as damp patches that relate to the point of water entry, such as an internal stain opposite a cracked or exposed wall, around windows, or under a leaking gutter or parapet. ARVEAN waterproofing and protective coatings seal these surfaces to prevent water ingress and protect the wall from weathering.
Find and fix the actual source of water before applying any coating, otherwise the damp will return. Inspect the outside of the building in wet weather where possible: look for hairline or open cracks in render or masonry, damaged or missing pointing, failed or cracked sealants around windows and doors, blocked or leaking gutters and downpipes, defective or bridged parapets and copings, and water running down exposed walls. Look inside for the pattern of damp - a patch opposite a leak, staining high on walls, or damp near a specific opening usually points to penetrating damp. Rule out other causes (rising damp, plumbing leaks, condensation). Repair the cause where practical: seal cracks, fix gutters, repoint and correct flashings. A protective coating then guards the surface against further ingress.
The wall must be sound, clean and dry. Remove loose render, paint, moss, algae and dirt, and cut out and repair damaged pointing and cracks with a suitable repair mortar or flexible sealant where movement is expected. Allow repairs to cure. Brush and remove all dust from the surface. Work in dry conditions and within the temperature range on the data sheet, and do not apply to a damp or rain-affected surface or when rain is expected before the coating cures. Use appropriate PPE including gloves and eye protection, and protect windows, trim and drains from overspray or run-off where required.
Apply the recommended primer or first coat to the prepared surface as instructed, to seal and improve adhesion. Apply the waterproofing or protective coating evenly by brush or roller over the full exposed area, covering walls, parapets, copings and around openings so water cannot find an untreated path. Pay special attention to detail areas and any repaired cracks, applying extra coats where the system requires reinforcement or build-up at weak points. Apply the number of coats and the total dry-film thickness specified, respecting recoat times, and do not leave thin or missed patches, since water will find them. Work in sections to keep a wet edge and an even film.
Allow the coating to cure fully as instructed before exposing it to rain. After curing, inspect the treated surfaces for missed areas, thin spots, uncoated repairs or details and touch them up. Keep gutters, parapets and drainage clear, and periodically inspect and maintain the coating, repairing any damage promptly so damp cannot re-enter. For an effective, lasting result, always confirm the exact product, coverage, coats and primer with the ARVEAN technical data sheet for your wall type, and fix the underlying cause of the damp before coating.
GUIDE 8 — SCREEDS & PROFESSIONAL FLOORING
HOW TO IDENTIFY, PREPARE AND APPLY
What they are. Screeds are levelling layers applied over a base to create a smooth, level surface ready for a final floor finish or coating. They include cementitious/self-levelling screeds and repair/levelling compounds used to correct uneven, damaged or poorly finished floors before tiling, flooring or coating. Professional flooring systems (epoxy, polyurethane, screed/aggregate and flake systems) are then applied over the prepared, levelled substrate to give a durable, seamless, decorative or protective finish. A successful professional floor depends on a sound, dry, level substrate and correct preparation - most failures happen at this stage, not with the topcoat itself.
Step 1 — Identify the problem & choose the right system
Assess the floor and decide what is needed. Common issues are an uneven or out-of-level substrate, localised holes, cracks or spalls, an unsuitable or weak topping, or a floor that needs a hard-wearing, seamless, decorative or hygienic finish. Decide whether you need a levelling/repair screed to correct the base, a self-levelling screed over the whole area, and then which flooring system (epoxy, polyurethane, aggregate/flake or protective) suits the use. Confirm the substrate type, the correct screed and primer, and the right coating for the traffic and conditions (for example, garages, warehouses, showrooms or kitchens). Check for damp or contamination in the base that could ruin the new screed or coating, and confirm coverage from the technical data sheet.
Step 2 — Tools, conditions & surface preparation
Preparation is essential. Remove oils, grease, old coatings, laitance, dust and loose material, and mechanically clean or grind the substrate where needed so the screed and coating can bond. Repair significant cracks, holes and spalls with a suitable repair mortar and allow it to cure. Prime the substrate with the correct primer (as recommended for the screed or coating and the base) to seal and promote adhesion, and allow it to dry. Confirm the substrate is dry and free of rising moisture; screeds and coatings should not be applied over a damp base without a suitable damp-proof membrane. Work in the conditions and temperature range recommended, ventilate, and use appropriate PPE including gloves and eye protection.
Step 3 — Apply the screed / levelling layer
Mix the screed or self-levelling compound strictly according to the data sheet, using the correct amount of water or mixing ratio. Pour and spread self-levelling screed evenly, allowing it to flow and self-level, and use a spiked roller to release trapped air. For a cementitious screed, lay, level and trowel it to the correct thickness and falls, and cure it correctly (for example, damp curing to avoid rapid drying and cracking). Do not apply a topcoat until the screed has cured and dried to the moisture content required by the coating system - premature coating over a damp screed is a common cause of failure. Allow the required drying time before any flooring or coating is installed.
Step 4 — Apply the professional floor finish
Once the screed is cured and dry, prime it as recommended for the flooring system, then apply the chosen professional finish. For polyurethane or epoxy flooring, apply the base/body coat evenly by roller or as directed, and apply the number of coats specified. For screed, aggregate or flake (decorative) systems, broadcast the aggregate or flakes into the wet coat as instructed, then seal the floor with the specified topcoat once the flake layer is ready. Maintain a wet edge, respect recoat windows, and apply the correct total film build. Allow the final coat to cure fully before foot traffic, and longer before heavy traffic or vehicles, following the data sheet.
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TECHNICAL DATA & EXPERT SUPPORT
Every application is different. For exact coverage, mixing, primers, application and cure details for a specific ARVEAN product and substrate, consult the product technical data sheet or ask our technical team - they can confirm the correct system and surface preparation for your project.